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“Yeah, I’m fine,” she replies, but I can tell that she’s not really.
“You sure? You seem a little on edge.”
She hesitates for a moment before shaking her head. “I’m just not used to surfing with so many people around. It’s kind of overwhelming.”
“You’ll be fine,” I reassure her. “Just try to focus on the waves and not the people.”
She nods, looking a little more relaxed now, and we make our way out to the water, leaving Bhodi on the sand with strict instructions not to eat all of the snacks.
The waves are good today, and I feel the familiar thrill of excitement as I paddle out. The water is cold, but I don’t really notice it as I focus on the waves. I have to admit, surfing really does clear my head. I can feel the tension slipping out of my body with every stroke of my arms.
As we get out to the break, we take our positions to wait for the perfect wave. Malia looks a little shaky at first, but as we wait, she seems to relax a little more. Bhodi is sitting on the sand, watching the other surfers intently. I’m too far out to make out the expression on his face but I can tell from the tense set of his shoulders and just knowing him too well that he’s probably scowling at them. He hates it when other people encroach on ‘our’ beach. Even though it’s some of the best surf on the island, we usually have this place to ourselves.
Malia and I catch a few waves, laughing and whooping as we ride them into shore. It’s not long before we’re both feeling pretty good, the sun warming our skin and the waves keeping us entertained.
And then, suddenly, everything changes.
I see her first, the woman from my dreams. She’s out in the water, her hair tangled and her eyes wild. I blink, thinking for a moment that I must be hallucinating, but when I open my eyes again, she’s still there.
I paddle over to Malia, who’s looking at me quizzically.
“Do you see her?” I whisper, pointing to the woman.
“See who?”
I look back and the woman’s gone. I shake my head, thinking I must have imagined it. But then, a few minutes later, she’s back. This time, she’s closer, and I can see that she’s not just some random surfer. There’s something off about her, something dangerous.
I paddle towards the shore. Panic rises in my chest, but I try to keep it under control. I’m so busy focusing on the shoreline that I fail to notice the wave building behind me.
It’s only when I feel the rush of water carrying me forward that I realise I’ve made a mistake. I’ve caught the biggest wave of the day and I’m not sure I can handle it. I try to adjust my position, but it’s too late. The wave is huge, and it’s dragging me at breakneck speed towards the sand.
Malia screams my name, and Bhodi jumps up from where he’d been sitting on the sand. But it’s too late for them to do anything. I’m already committed to the ride.
The wave carries me towards the shore, and I feel the rush of adrenaline as I realise how fast I’m going. The wind is whipping past me, and my board is vibrating under my feet. I have no idea how I’m going to survive this.
The next thing I know, I’m airborne. The wave has launched me into the air, and I’m falling, falling, falling. I hit the water hard and am immediately caught in a rip current.
I struggle against the current, trying to get to the surface for air. The water is cold and dark, and I’m disoriented. My board is hitting me from behind, but I can’t seem to move my limbs to get myself upright. I’m panicking and my lungs are burning. There’s no sense of my magic within me, ready to activate and save my life.
I feel fingers around my ankle, fiddling with my leash and then suddenly it’s gone and the Velcro strap is replaced by freakishly strong fingers which are pulling me down into the depths of the abyss.
Just as I think I’m about to pass out, strong arms wrap around me and pull me up to the surface. I gasp for air as I cling onto the person who’s saved me.
“Are you okay?” someone yells over the sound of the waves. I don’t recognise the voice. Must be one of the other surfers.
I nod, still coughing up water.
“Thank you,” I manage to say.
He helps me onto his board and paddles us towards the shore. When we reach the shallows, he helps me off his board and I sit on the sand for a moment, catching my breath.
“Are you sure you’re okay?” he asks me again.
I nod, feeling a little embarrassed at how shaken up I am.
“Alright dude. That was an epic wave by the way. Shame you wiped out.” I give him a tight smile, my lungs and eyes still burning. As well as my cheeks. “You really should wear your leash, though. Christ knows if you’ll get your board back, or if it’ll be in one piece if you do.”
“Yeah. Sorry. I hope no one was hit by my board.”
