Page 36 of Lowering His Guard

They appear confused, so I enlighten them. “Whitewater catches you. Green waves have to choose you back. Who’s ready to catch a green wave?”

They cheer but I also notice some apprehension. Good. Surfing can be dangerous. Being reckless can get you killed.

“Okay, Jace. You’re up first.”

I promise I’m not playing favorites. I’m not letting him go first because I want to spend time with his dad getting sweaty in the sheets. Honestly.

Jace is more athletic than the other kids. Probably because his dad is a professional athlete. And there I go, thinking about his dad again.

I pat the water next to me where I’m sitting on my board. “Paddle over here.”

Once he reaches me, I coach him. “Turn around. Nose toward shore. Good. Now wait. Don’t chase every wave.”

One wave passes us and another approaches. “Can’t I just go?”

“Nope. The ocean decides when you go, not you.”

Another passes. “Now?”

I grin. “Do you know what the hardest part of surfing is?”

“Standing up.”

I shake my head. “No. It’s waiting for the right wave.”

A larger, clean wave approaches.

“This is yours! Paddle! Paddle! Hard! Hard! Hard! Up!”

Jace pops up. His face lights up for about two seconds before he wipes out. He slaps his hand on the water. “I suck.”

I paddle toward him. “Know what the difference is between a beginner and a surfer?”

“What?”

“The surfer keeps paddling.”

He pushes his wet hair out of his face. “Okay. Can I go again?”

There ya go. I hide my grin. “Get on your board.”

We paddle together into the ocean. This time I don’t have to instruct him. He immediately turns around and points the nose of the board toward the shore.

“Remember to wait for a clean wave.”

“Got it,” he mutters as he studies the oncoming wave. I open my mouth to tell him to let it pass but I don’t need to. He’s not moving. The next one is perfect.

“Paddle!” I shout, but Jace is already moving. He’s pushing hard. “Up!”

He pops up. He’s not smiling this time. He’s concentrating on his balance. Keeping his knees bent and not locking his legs. He’s looking where he’s going. Not down at his feet.

He rides the wave all the way to the shore. When he looks back, I throw my hands in the air. “Yes! What’s rule number two?”

He laughs. “Always have fun.”

I tap the side of my nose. “Exactly!”

“Dave!” I shout. “Your turn.”