Page 35 of Ask No Questions

“First you want to make sure you’re in the right spot on your board. Move up a little bit, so your feet aren’t hanging over the edge.”

I moved myself forward until he said stop then looked down to remember where I was for later.

“Good, now start paddling. Don’t spread your fingers apart, you’ll move a little faster if you cup your hands.”

I started paddling in the sand, feeling a little silly. “Do you feel comfortable with that?”

“I guess.” I had no idea what I was supposed to be comfortable with. “...So how long do I do this for?"

"You have to paddle out to get into the lineup. Then when you see a wave you want, you have to paddle to get into position. Then paddle hard to get the wave to catch you."

"Sounds exhausting."

"You'll discover muscles you never knew you had." He laughed like he had a secret. "When you feel ready, and the wave is under you, it’s time to pop up."

He laughed at my confused expression but continued explaining. "Hold onto the sides of the board and get ready to do a push-up." He waited for me to get into position.

"Now go up until your arms are fully extended." I followed along, aware I was making a fool of myself. "Once you're here you have to move your feet up toward your stomach in one motion. One foot should be toward the back and one in the middle."

He pushed off and landed looking like a ninja. I copied the motion and ended up facing him.

"Are you a lefty?"

"No, why?"

"You're goofy."

I mocked being offended. “What is that supposed to mean?"

"Your right foot is forward."

"Is it not supposed to be? Should I be facing the other way?"

He shook his head and shrugged. "No, just do what feels natural. Do this a couple more times, and then we’re heading in."

I laid back down, pretended to paddle, and when he signaled, I put my hands on the sides and popped up again. Feeling pretty proud of myself, I looked at him and saw him smiling at me.

“That’s good. Remember where you are and try to duplicate that when you’re in the water. If you’re too far forward when you try to stand, you’ll pearl.”

Was I supposed to know what that meant? I gave him a second to clarify, but he was looking out at the ocean.

“Pearl?”

“Oh, sorry. That’s when your nose goes under, and the board does a front flip. You’ll get messed up, so avoid doing that.”

As if I would have control over that. I took it as a good sign though that he was confident in me.

"You're a good coach."

"Don't say that too soon. You haven't been out yet."

He nodded toward the water and started toward it. I followed him, assuming we were going to feel how cold it was. I stood next to him, waiting for the water to come back and meet my toes. He took another step forward, and I mimicked him. After a few seconds, he took another, and I followed. After another step, the water was up to mid-calf level. I was about to step back as another wave rolled in, but just as I began to move, a hand wrapped around my waist.

Before my mind could catch up to what was happening his other hand grabbed me, lifting me into the air and over his shoulder. He took several steps deeper into the water with me upside down then threw me in. The ice-cold water shocked my body. I was too stunned to move at first, but my feet found the ground and I stood up, wiping loose hair out of my face. I was facing the ocean, so I quickly turned and saw Luke running back to the beach. I waded through until I got to the sand and took off after him.

"You threw me in! Are you crazy?"

I was running as fast as the loose sand would allow and gaining on him quickly. Apparently, he didn't expect me to retaliate. A moment later I was behind him and used my momentum to launch myself at him. We landed hard on the sand with me lying on top of him. I shifted to lay next to him with our legs still tangled. I was laughing uncontrollably even when he turned his face toward me, scowling.