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‘And this is the Macellum Scavi, the remains of a food market where people would come to trade food and fruit and vegetables. A shopkeeper was found under a stone bench just over there.’
‘Well, that’s good isn’t it? He was so lucky. I mean, wasn’t he injured at all?’ Thelma asked cheerfully.
‘What an unusual question, I don’t think I have ever been asked that before,’ Isabella said meaningfully, and Thelma beamed round at the rest of us as though she had won Mastermind. ‘There were about fifteen thousand people in Pompeii and about two thousand died. The only survivors were those who left the area when the earthquakes started. The ones who waited to see what would happen; they had no chance. This shopkeeper was only found because of the plaster cast made of his – how would you say – vapourised body. Many more died in Herculaneum, Stabiae and the surrounding villages.’
We walked on, admiring the beautifully clean streets and the many interesting things we saw. Mosaics, frescos, statues and pillars, and the only graffiti was done over two thousand years ago and so didn’t really count.
Isabella was a well-informed and pleasant guide and she talked and answered questions for the whole of our time with her.
‘I think I need a sit down,’ Evelyn said at last.
To be fair we had been on the move for a long time with just the occasional rest stop and up until then she had shown little sign of her age.
‘Oh, I’m a tough old buzzard,’ she said, ‘I always have been. And if what Isabella said was true, this place won’t be here for much longer for people to admire, so better get on with it. Still, I did see that cafe a little while back by the entrance. That might be nice.’
We walked back, the early afternoon heat increasing until we reached the cafe and, despite the crowds, were lucky to find an empty table in the shade.
Diana went off to fetch some cold drinks and Evelyn removed her sunhat and flapped at her face.
‘Well, that was fun,’ she said, ‘but poor old Pompeii. It must have been awful.’
I looked at my watch, it was just after two o’clock and we still had ages before we needed to return to the ship.
The cafe was busy, and the service was slow, so it was twenty minutes before Diana returned with a tray of drinks and sandwiches.
‘Those poor girls in there,’ she said, ‘so many customers and only one card machine. And I think the broadband speed here dates back to AD 79 too.’
We sat in the shade, enjoying our snack and chatting. A huge queue formed for the ice cream stand, and everything seemed relatively good humoured and pleasant.
‘There’s ages till we have to leave, and from what’s been said today, this might be our last chance to see this place,’ Evelyn said, ‘well it certainly will be for me. Let’s go on in the other direction now I’ve got my breath back and just wander about for a bit.’
‘The coach back to the ship doesn’t leave until four, that’s plenty of time,’ I said.
So that’s what we did. As soon as we stood up, other people swooped in to take our table and then we strolled back into the ancient streets of Pompeii, choosing new little alleyways which led enticingly between houses and temples. The crowds were not so bad there, the streets paved with stones worn smooth over time, and occasionally ruts where the carts had passed centuries ago.
‘This was supposed to be a place where the wealthy Romans came for their holidays,’ Evelyn said, ‘a sort of ancient Sidmouth or Lytham St Annes. Now what’s this? Quadriportico dei Teatri. The theatre of four gates? Isn’t it marvellous? And nice and cool under these walkways. And imagine all the people sitting up there on the steps. I wonder what they watched?’
‘Gladiators?’ Diana said. ‘They were very popular. The rock stars of their day.’
‘Like the American wrestlers. I can understand that,’ Evelyn said. ‘I’ve spent many an evening watching WWE, Douglas loved it although he said most of it was choregraphed. He had a particular liking for Stone Cold Steve Austin, although I preferred Bret the Hitman Hart. Every time I made a curry, Douglas would come into the kitchen; “can you smell what the Rock is cooking”, he’d say. It made me laugh every time.’
Diana and I exchanged a look over Evelyn’s head. Our new friend certainly was full of surprises.
We strolled on, through narrow streets and alleys, past scaffolding where work was still progressing, enjoying the afternoon sunshine and each other’s company. Fewer people were around where we were and we paused a few times, to perch on a stone bench, have a drink of water and wonder what life must have been like for the Pompeiians all those centuries ago.
And then Evelyn stumbled on the uneven stones and twisted her ankle. It was enough for her to need to stop and sit down and she sat on the stump of a fallen column, rubbing her foot and cursing.
‘Oh dear, I am so clumsy these days. I told you I wasn’t very steady any more.’
‘Have you broken anything?’ I asked.
Evelyn pulled herself up and gingerly tested her injured ankle.
‘No, I don’t think so, but it’s very sore.’
She sat down again and rummaged in her handbag for a tissue.
‘What time is it?’ Diana asked at last.
